Jefferson City, Missouri - It's a Gas!
I don't know quite how to tell you this
so I'm just going to blurt it out. You're going to prison! No, this has
nothing to do with those unpaid parking tickets or that jaywalking incident.
As a matter of fact you'll likely enjoy your trip to the historic Missouri
State Penitentiary in Jefferson City and, while you'll want to spend some
time, you don't have to stay.
The Missouri State Penitentiary (MSP),
decommissioned in 2004, is one of the main tourist attractions in Jefferson
City. The infamous outlaw Pretty Boy Floyd was imprisoned there as were
colorfully-named convicts Stagger Lee, Shoo-Fly, "Firebug" Johnson and
12-strike loser Dutch Charlie. James Earl Ray, the assassin of Martin Luther
King, Jr., ended up in MSP and famous pugilist Sonny Liston began his professional
boxing career after he was paroled from the joint where he was serving
time on two robbery beefs. To give you an idea of how much history MSP
has, consider this: the prison was in operation for 100-years before Alcatraz
took on its first inmate. Various tours of MSP are available including
those focusing on history or eerie ghost, twilight and paranormal tours.
If you're fortunate enough to take a tour with former MSP guard Bill Green
you'll hear stories that'll chill you to the bone. To begin the tour, the
affable Green may show you his collection of prison-made shivs and shanks,
many of which were confiscated only after they had already proven lethal
to some unfortunate soul. MSP was so notorious for violence that, standing
in the now calm and weedy exercise yard, Green utters a shocking advisement.
"Point to any spot and I'll tell you whose blood was spilt there." One
of Green's favorite prison locales is the gas chamber where one woman and
39 men were put to death. Nowadays the small building is more innocuous
than it is macabre; a marker with photos of the executed is the only indicator
of what went on there. Otherwise, the chamber itself (made from parts of
a World War I submarine) can be entered and those who choose can have their
photo taken sitting in the death seat. Indeed when travelers these days
visit Jefferson City and say that their visit was a gas they're indicating
something quite the opposite of what the phrase meant to MSP inmates. www.missouripentours.com
The gas chamber building at Missouri State Penitentiary
Bill Green with lethal prison shanks
In the gas chamber
The prison tour will no doubt awaken your
appetite; nearby is the cleverly-named eatery and micro brewery Prison
Brews where they have tons of last meal-worthy items on the menu. But the
restaurant's real draw is their homemade hooch, beers that carry names
like Go to Jail Ale, Hard Time IPA and Prison Town Brown. As is the case
with most micro breweries, Prison Brews has a sampler paddle that'll let
you taste them all.
The suds sampler at Prison Brews
A less daunting but just as interesting
building to see in Jefferson City is the Missouri State Capitol. Constructed
in the Roman Renaissance style and modeled after the U.S. Capitol in Washington,
D.C., the building's exterior walls, rotunda and stairways are made of
Carthage marble with the huge front doors being cast of bronze. There's
a lot more here than just eye candy for architecture buffs though; a must-see
is the "Social History of Missouri" mural by native Missourian artist Thomas
Hart Benton and baseball fans will want to seek out the bust of Stan Musial,
the slugging St. Louis Cardinal star who's often referred to lovingly as
Stan the Man. Guided tours are available most days (573) 751-2854. Adjacent
to the capitol grounds is the city's monument to Lewis & Clark; the
famed explorers camped nearby in 1804 as their expedition made its way
westward. Known as the Corps of Discovery monument and located in the Katy
Trailhead Plaza, the tribute features sculptures depicting Lewis, Clark,
Clark's slave, an interpreter and somewhat whimsically, Seaman, a Newfoundland
dog that belonged to Lewis. Obviously a vital member of the expedition,
Seaman is depicted with a duck that he apparently caught for the crew's
supper.
Lewis & Clark monument at capitol building
Bust of Stan Musial in capitol building
Thomas Hart Benton mural in capitol building
Music lovers and especially vinyl fanatics
will want to stop at In the Groove Records (626 Jefferson St.) where the
selection is huge and there are lots of records starting at $1. Jefferson
City is a relatively small city but it does have its own music scene. Check
out The Spot (222 E. High St., music Thurs.-Sat.) for live performances
from acts like Squigglefish, acoustic act David Baker and rockabilly outfit
Gasconade Hell Band. Otherwise be on the lookout for popular local acts
Shaman's Harvest, 2 Car Pile-Up, Bluegrass Martins, Fail Inc., Dirt Leg
Benders and the Bobby Showers Band. You might even catch the White Rabbits
in town; members of the now Brooklyn-based band have roots in Jefferson
City and nearby Columbia. Surely it'll be a gas.
In the Groove Records
www.visitjeffersoncity.com
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