Sun & Sax: Mexico's Riviera Maya
Jazz Festival
Has it been a long time since you've had
some really good sax? Do you even remember the last time you did something
really daring, like have sax on the beach? In front of a few thousand people?
What if I told you there was a place where you could shed your inhibitions
and have all the sax you desire for one glorious long weekend? Well it's
not a secret. Head for Playa del Carmen on Mexico's beautiful Riviera Maya
for the Riviera Maya Jazz Festival and it's a sure bet that you'll leave
satisfied.
The Riviera Maya is a sixty mile long swath
of Mexico's Caribbean coastline on the Yucatan Peninsula that begins about
ten miles south of Cancun and stretches nearly to the Belize border. The
coastline takes its name from the fact that this area was (and is) home
to the Mayan people and there are many places nearby to learn about Mayan
heritage, including the spectacularly well-preserved beachside ruins at
Tulum. And right smack-dab in the middle of the Riviera Maya is Playa del
Carmen, the jumping-off place for all activities in the area and the host
city of the annual Riviera Maya Jazz Festival. Many of the residents of
Playa del Carmen work in industries dependant on tourism and they work
hard to keep their city at the top of its game for all the margarita-loving
sun worshippers that visit every year and some years ago they decided that
they too needed a special place to let loose and have some fun. Thus was
born the Riviera Maya Jazz Festival. The festival's organizers initially
thought that a night of jazz on the beach featuring artists from throughout
Mexico would appeal only to the local population. Needless to say music
lovers of all sorts flocked to the show and the event now spans a three-day
weekend and features not only the hottest Mexican jazz groups but acts
from all over the world. And what a setting the festival has! A stage is
set up right on the sand at Mamitas Beach, a gorgeous spot that during
the day attracts swimmers, sunbathers and beachcombers who also enjoy the
snacks and cerveza served up at the adjacent Mamitas Beach Club. But when
the sun has cast its last ray and the lights of the island of Cozumel twinkle
in the distance it's time to get barefoot and dance in the sand and there's
generally a little something for everyone to be found under the heading
of "jazz." The variety of sounds in 2008 from the Mexican acts alone included
P.P. Moran and Hector Infanzon playing steamy Latin music, Iraida Noriega
singing with a Brazilian flair and the young ladies of the Beaujean Project
performing sweet vocal tunes. There was even some rock-flavored jazz as
the group Aguamala played originals and esoteric covers like Frank Zappa's
"Inca Roads." American acts in attendance were equally diverse; sax man
David Sanborn, guitarist Earl Klugh, Herbie Hancock and Fourplay featuring
jazz greats Bob James, Nathan East, Larry Carlton and Harvey Mason all
wowed the crowd with their distinctive sounds. And of course through it
all the Caribbean Sea is not about to be outdone; she's making her own
music as she gently laps at the shore mere yards away from the stage.
Beaujean Project
Bernardo Ron of Aguamala
David Sanborn
There are enough lovely beaches and activities
on the Riviera Maya that there is never a loss for wet fun-in-the-sun but
there are lots of other things to do as well. As you move inland from the
beach the land quickly turns to jungle, much of which is dense and populated
with lots of wildlife (keep an eye out for curious roadside iguanas and
brightly colored parrots.) It is in this type of setting where you'll find
Xcaret, a sort of Mayan theme park. Xcaret (pronounced "Ish-kuh-ret") is
a great place to spend a day learning about Mayan and Mexican culture in
an interactive way. The park is large and if you are in the mood for a
hike there are several scenic trails looping through the lush jungle. But
many visit Xcaret for the exotic animals; you can swim with dolphins or
if you prefer to stay on land there are two big cats---jaguars---on display.
A visit to Xcaret's recreation of a Mayan cemetery offers a surprise; the
colorful and often whimsical nature of the grave markers is part and parcel
of the Mayan belief in a happy afterlife. Xcaret is filled with things
that represent various aspects of daily Mayan life and if you're adventurous
enough you can sign up to take part in a spiritual cleansing ritual that
involves a ceremony similar to what goes on in a Native American sweat
lodge. Xcaret has several restaurants and bars including one that features
a huge Mexican food buffet where you can listen to a traditional Mexican
band and watch a horse show while you eat.
Xcaret Entertainment
The cemetery at Xcaret
While there are many unique things to do
on the Riviera Maya there are plenty of the normal things too. Playa del
Carmen has a "touristy" shopping zone where you can find typical Mexican
souvenirs; nearby is a tonier shopping area just in case you need to buy
some new designer sunglasses. This part of town also hosts the nightclubs
that throb to house music all night long. But if you truly are sax crazed,
circle November on your calendar so you'll remember to visit Playa del
Carmen when the saxophones, timbales and upright basses come out in full
force. This year's Riviera Maya Jazz Festival will be held November 27th
through the 29th.
The ruins at Tulum
www.rivieramayajazzfestival.com
www.rivieramaya.com
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