Kentucky Legends: Abe, Dwight and Old
Joe Clark
A tall guy wearing a stove pipe hat, a
singer wearing jeans with the legs all shredded to pieces and an old feller
with a banjo slung over his shoulder. It sounds like the beginning of one
of those "three guys walk into a bar" jokes. In reality you'll run into
each of these gentlemen as you travel the back roads of southeastern Kentucky
and you've probably guessed by now that the guy in the stove pipe hat is
none other than Abraham Lincoln, our nation's 16th president. The guy in
the ratty jeans? That would be country music star and actor Dwight Yoakam.
Poke around a little bit in this part of Kentucky and you'll meet both
of these native sons and other colorful characters like our third mystery
man, Old Joe Clark. Exploring this part of the world is easy nowadays but
it wasn't always that way. As you zoom around from one southeastern Kentucky
attraction to another you might want to send a little silent thank you
to Daniel Boone!
Old Joe Clark
At the very bottom of Kentucky where the
state borders both Tennessee and Virginia is the Cumberland Gap, a natural
passageway through the Cumberland Mountains range of the Appalachian Mountains.
The thick forest and rough terrain here used to be impassable until about
230-years ago when Daniel Boone widened the pathway, famously blazing the
Wilderness Road through the mountain pass and making it feasible for settlers
to make their way to all points west. Today many come to the Cumberland
Gap National Historic Park to visit Pinnacle Overlook, a cliff-side scenic
viewpoint where you can peer down at what Boone had to deal with. From
the overlook's vantage point you can see for miles and it's easy to start
mapping out your own "wilderness road" while you're gazing down into the
gap. In order to meet the first (and best known) legend waiting along the
way, though, you'll need to go back down the mountain and cross just over
the state line into the small town of Harrogate, Tennessee.
Harrogate is home to Lincoln Memorial University
which is in turn home to the Abraham Lincoln Library and Museum. The museum
has an extensive collection of Lincoln memorabilia including such items
as the cane he was carrying the night he was assassinated in Ford's Theater
and the tea set that the Lincolns used in their home in Springfield. Lincoln's
story is of course intertwined with the story of the Civil War and much
of the exhibit focuses on that conflict. Amongst the thousands of pieces
on display there is one that is most stunning---a sculpture of the president
that's so lifelike that you feel like you're actually face to face with
the Great Emancipator!
Abe
Back in Kentucky and north of the Cumberland Gap is where the music starts.
If you take just a cursory glance as you enter the sleepy village of Renfro
Valley you'll miss the town's musical significance. But there are two very
impressive music-related venues here; the Kentucky Music Hall of Fame and
Museum and the Renfro Valley Entertainment Center. This is also where you'll
meet our two other Kentucky legends. Mr. Tattered Denim himself, Dwight
Yoakam, was just inducted into the hall in 2008 and you'll see one of his
outfits---ripped jeans, scuffed boots and his trademark hat---as soon as
you enter the display area. Lots of other famous Kentucky-born country
artists are celebrated here too, among them the Judds, Sam Bush, John Conlee
and Crystal Gayle. But honors also go to Kentuckians who made it big in
other genres such as jazz greats Les McCann and Lionel Hampton, folk singer
Mary Travers of Peter, Paul & Mary, gospel singer Dottie Rambo and
versatile vocalist Florence Henderson. The walls are of course covered
with beautiful guitars, mandolins, fiddles and the like while countless
display cases feature personal items from the stars.
To hear some live music all you have to do is head to the nearby Renfro
Valley Entertainment Center where almost every weekend they have some type
of pickin' party---a barn dance, a jamboree, a "gatherin'" or a gospel
jubilee. The center also hosts big name concerts with old-time stars like
Ray Price and Mel Tillis as well as contemporary acts like Cherryholmes
and the Renegades of Southern Rock. There's also lots of memorabilia at
the Entertainment Center from when the studio there hosted a weekly barn
dance program that was broadcast on the CBS radio network in the '50s.
If you're a music lover don't plan on breezing through Renfro Valley; you'll
need a whole day or at least an afternoon to fully enjoy what's going on
here. Oh, and Old Joe Clark, our last legend? Well, he's passed on now
but he's still one of the most beloved personalities in Renfro Valley.
Joe was a longtime performer at Renfro's weekly barn dance (and a vet of
Nashville's Grand Ole Opry) who was as quick with a joke as he was with
a banjo lick. Renfro's tribute to Old Joe includes a nice statue at the
Entertainment Center.
Southeastern Kentucky is also very famous
for its folk artistry and while there are artist studios throughout the
area, the city of Berea is the epicenter for local talent. A huge amount
of art and craftwork is on display and for sale at the Kentucky Artisan
Center in Berea; here you can find pieces of just about every discipline;
wood carvings, glass work and metal sculptures galore line the floor. Some
are definitely fine art while others are folksier and whimsical and this
is an amazing place to at least window-shop. A similar but smaller must-see
venue is the Berea College Log House Craft Gallery. Everything in the gallery
is made by Berea College students and again there is fine art along with
practical craft items like a selection of corn bristle brooms.
Berea is also home to the pottery studio of Jeff Enge and Sarah Culbreth
called Tater Knob. If you get to Tater Knob at the right time you can see
the pottery being made, decorated and fired but their extensive shop is
worth a visit anytime. Tater Knob is a bit out in the woods but if you
want unique work made with pride in Kentucky then this is another mandatory
stop. The couple doesn't make trinkets; their crockery is fine (but affordable
and functional) art.
Musicians will want to stop in at the downtown
Berea woodworking shop of Warren A. May. May has a variety of his hand-crafted
items on sale in the shop but his specialty is dulcimers. May's workshop
takes up one corner of the room and patrons can often watch him at work
there. And if you ask, May will take one of his finished dulcimers off
the display rack behind him and play a little tune for you. He might even
sing. Did I say that Old Joe Clark was our last legend? Well that was a
bit of a Kentucky fib. May and plenty of others you'll meet in southeast
Kentucky fit the description---they just don't know it yet.
Warren A. May
To plan your trip visit: www.tourseky.com
or call 1-877-TOUR-SEKY
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